A Lap of Lewis: Exploring Scotland’s Wild West Coast
Circumnavigating Lewis and Harris is no mean feat - conditions have to line up just right. Our latest research expedition aboard Silurian managed a full lap of the islands, crossing the Minch from Ullapool, navigating our way through the Sound of Harris and rounding the exposed Butt of Lewis. Read on to find out how we got on…
From the very beginning, this expedition delivered. Our first day brought a minke whale on the move and pods of common dolphins, some with calves glued to their mothers’ sides as they leapt alongside Silurian. The real spectacle came whilst crossing the Minch, which we did twice and on both occasions were blessed with glassy conditions. This set the stage for what can only be described as minke mayhem, with multiple whales lunge-feeding and surfacing all around us, with their white “minke mittens” flashing below, and above, the surface. In total we recorded 47 minke whales throughout the trip!
Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, on our last full day of surveying, a majestic fin whale surfaced amongst the commotion - the second-largest animal on the planet, right here in Scottish waters. This sighting was particularly exciting as fin whales are part of an ongoing project led by Dr Conor Ryan to collect faecal samples from the deck of vessels like Silurian. Although we didn’t scoop any poop any on this occasion, the team kept a close eye on the water’s surface in case the opportunity arose. With larger whales like fin and humpbacks returning to The Minch in recent years, understanding their diet is crucial for protecting these giants and the marine ecosystems that support them.
While the Butt of Lewis treated us to dramatic seas, strong winds, and even a few biblical downpours, these challenges were balanced by the calm glassy waters either side. Seabirds led the way on many of our best encounters. Diving gannets, shearwaters in their hundreds, and even opportunistic great and arctic skuas guided us towards the action below the surface. A few migratory wagtails and pipits even joined us briefly, resting on board during a period of windy weather. White-tailed eagles made appearances overhead, while inquisitive grey seals popped up both at anchor and mid-survey. Some of our participants were also lucky enough to spot an early morning otter.
Every evening brought a new anchorage, from sheltered bays on Harris to the remote Summer Isles. Citizen scientists kept spirits high with hearty meals and even braver sea swims, while quiz nights and games rounded off long days spent surveying.
In total, we visually surveyed 632 km of sea, collected 66 hours of acoustic recordings, and recorded 7 different species of marine megafauna, adding valuable data to HWDT’s long-term monitoring of marine mammals in the Hebrides. Every sighting, photograph, and acoustic track contributes to a clearer picture of how whales, dolphins, and porpoises use these waters - vital knowledge for protecting Scotland’s seas.
A huge thank you to our incredible team of citizen scientists for helping us achieve something special: a full circumnavigation of Lewis and Harris, filled with moments of magic on the water. Thank you Neil, Nick S, Nick F, John, Andy and Paula, as well as our awesome crew Ferghal, Dylan, Emma and Jessie.
